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Late Model Diaphragm Bleeders
After testing in 2009 in AZ. and CA. with Mike Kirby,
we feel we have a sequel to our Sprint Car Bleeders, that are run by
every Traveling World of Outlaw team. Mike won the 2nd night out,
and now has a total of 7 wins for the season. The Late Model Kit
comes with 2 bleeders, enough hose for both wheels, an extractor to
remove the bleeders from the dust cover, 2 hose ends, 2 removable
screens for the wheel inserts. The bleeders come with 2 red springs
installed, good up to 9 lbs, and a silver spring for the r. rear
good to 15 lbs. Also included are 2 brass set screws, with a .020
hole drilled in the center to reduce the flow of air, on a long
yellow, or closed red. As your rear tires cool down, they shrink in
size, and tell the bleeder to release air. The reducer slows that
process, but does not affect your desired setting on the top end.
Screens are a must, as any dirt that may be in your tire would clog
the hole in the reducer. The reducer will screw into the plastic
hose end (no tap needed). We have chosen the Winters and Wilwood
Covers that seem to be the most popular. If necessary, we can
produce a universal that will adapt to any cover. Dust covers are
sold separately, as teams may have multiple rear ends.

WINTERS |
$20.00 / Pair |

WILWOOD |
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$330.00 / Set |
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NEW STYLE WHEEL
INSERT FOR 2009
The
new wheel insert is machined from 6061 T6
aluminum and employs a push lock fitting,
similar to the one used in the diaphragm
bleeder. The push lock fitting is recessed
in the wheel insert for protection from mud and
rocks. It has a polyurethane cap with a
center hole so it slides down the hose snugly
after inserting the hose in the push lock
fitting, to further protect it from dirt.
The insert comes with 4 red caps to be used when
washing the wheels, and screens to keep dirt out
of the system. Screens should always be
used to protect the bleeder from dirt in the
wheel and tire.
Another improvement was designed specifically
for the right rear tire, which shrinks as the
tire cools down during an extended yellow or
closed red condition. The bleeder works so
efficiently that it can exhaust as much as 4
lbs. of air. On the bottom side of the new
wheel insert is drilled and tapped hole for a
6/32 brass set screw, that has a .035 hole
drilled through the center. The small hole
in the brass fitting slows down the air loss to
control that condition. However, the tire
will still bleed off to preset air pressure.
Davis and I have tested this brass fitting for
the last year with good success.
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$30 |
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MAINTENANCE
PROPER METHOD FOR
CLEANING DIAPHRAGM BLEEDERS
- Remove adjusting
cap and spring
- Remove nylon line
by depressing the orange donut on the center inlet, pull
hose out
- Remove nylon hose
and spring from assembly
- Holding bleeder
with inlet and muffler facing upward, remove back piece
(diaphragm will most likely come out still attached to
the back piece)
- Remove diaphragm,
fiber washer, and poppit
- Clean diaphragm
with soap and water or 409. Do not use brake clean.
- Wipe graphite off
the washer and poppit
- Clean back piece
and O-ring assembly with 409 or equivalent
- The back piece has a
screen in the center inlet to keep dirt out. After
cleaning use air to blow any dirt off the screen. Blow
the muffler clean from the outside-in, as excess
graphite will clog the muffler and stop the unit from
working properly.
- Wipe diaphragm with
paper towel until dry. Use extra fine graphite (Carquest
part # mz-2) put graphite in a little plastic container
and drop diaphragms into graphite. Put the lid on and
shake for about ten seconds. Remove diaphragms and set
on paper towel with the center circle upward. Massage
diaphragm with index finger until shiny. Blow off excess
graphite or it will eventually clog the bronze muffler
ASSEMBLY
Install the fiber washer first, then put poppit washer in
center (bevel side up). Drop diaphragm in last with the
little impression circle up. Note: the diaphragm usually
does not go in flat. Use the spring to push up slowly from
the bottom side. It will center itself. Hold the main body
in one hand, and start the back piece in the threaded hole.
Slowly spin the bottom piece until you feel it bottom.
Tighten back piece with a # 10 line wrench ( 1 inch ). Do
not over tighten. Re-install nylon hose up through the hole
opposite the muffler. Put spring on hose and leave enough
hose exposed so you can insert it into the inlet. Push it
into the little orange donut, about 3/16 inch. Slide spring
down to the orange donut and pull extra hose outward until
the spring is snug. Inspect the O-ring on the plastic piece
that goes into the wheel. It gets a lot of abuse and should
be changed if it is cut up or grooved. It completes the
passage of air from the tire to the bleeder and is a place
that could leak air. You can spray it with Windex or soapy
water to see if it bubbles. If you see bubbles replace the
O-ring. Install the spring and adjusting cap. Screw the end
cap all the way down. It is easier to arrive at the poundage
you want, by loosening the end cap slowly.
SETTING THE BLEEDERS
The air tank is the quickest and easiest method to set the
bleeders. Put +/-10 lbs of air in the tank. Start loosening
the end cap slowly. You will hear the bleeder vibrate. When
you get close to your setting bring the lock ring up to the
end cap. Tap the whole bleeder on the tank or table and
watch the air gauge. Tapping the bleeder gives the same
effect that it gets in the axle when the car is bouncing on
the track. Readjust air pressure if necessary and then lock
end cap tightly. You can also use your tire to set the
bleeders, however the volume of air in the tire is greater
than in the tank and it takes much longer.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE BLEEDERS
Dirt and moisture are the enemy, and will adversely affect
your bleeder. You should use screens on the
wheel receivers to keep dirt out. Always plug the wheel when
washing the car. Moisture can come from your air compressor.
Drain it nightly or install a water separator in the air
system. Using nitrogen will prevent moisture problems. If
the bleeder does not bleed off quickly, your muffler is
probably clogged. A good test is to remove the center inlet
with a 7/64 Allen wrench, and then take the muffler out.
Reinstall the center inlet and try again. If it vibrates,
then you know the muffler is dirty. If the bleeder won’t
hold air, it is the diaphragm. Disassemble to make sure the
diaphragm is free of dirt particles in the center impression
of the diaphragm (the little circle). If it is clean of
dirt, use graphite again.
| SPRINGS |
Red: 3 to 8 |
Silver: 8 to
15 |
Yellow: 8 to
21 |
White: 14 to
30 |
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Please contact
Conroy "Pneu" Control
for more
information or the nearest dealer
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Conroy "Pneu" Control
4375 Hickory Ridge
Brunswick OH 44212
Tel: 330.225.6366
Fax:
330.273.1127
info@conroypneucontrol.com
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