NEW for 2009!
Late Model Adapter
For Mini Sprint Bleeder
$25.00 / Pair
|Conroy “Pneu” Control is
pleased to announce the new Davis design tire bleeder for Mini
Sprints. The bleeder has been tested on the west coast with
great success. It is machined from 6061-T6 aluminum.
The mini bleeder is designed to fit an axle bore of 1.062 (1
1/16in), such as the Bailey and PMP chassis. The mini bleeder
comes with a reducer for the right rear wheel. The reducer is a
brass set screw with a .010 hole drilled through the center, to
reduce the flow of air during a long yellow or closed red. It
will bleed off to the preset setting. The reducer screws into
the plastic wheel insert, no tap necessary. Also included is a
bleeder extraction tool to help remove the bleeder from the
The mini bleeder will be introduced at the 2008 Chili Bowl in
the #07 Kiley Fellars 600cc mini sprint car.
The bleeder works on the same
principal as a High Speed By-Pass. Preset spring pressure
against a Diaphragm that controls the amount of air that is to
pass through the port. It releases air instantly in a 360 degree
pattern. You don't have to compensate for what you think it may
bleed off at. It repeats within 2/10 of a pound. With 4
different Springs, it has a range of 2 to 30 pounds.
NEW STYLE WHEEL
INSERT FOR 2007
new wheel insert is machined from 6061 T6
aluminum and employs a push lock fitting,
similar to the one used in the diaphragm
bleeder. The push lock fitting is recessed
in the wheel insert for protection from mud and
rocks. It has a polyurethane cap with a
center hole so it slides down the hose snugly
after inserting the hose in the push lock
fitting, to further protect it from dirt.
The insert comes with 4 red caps to be used when
washing the wheels, and screens to keep dirt out
of the system. Screens should always be
used to protect the bleeder from dirt in the
wheel and tire.
Another improvement was designed specifically
for the right rear tire, which shrinks as the
tire cools down during an extended yellow or
closed red condition. The bleeder works so
efficiently that it can exhaust as much as 4
lbs. of air. On the bottom side of the new
wheel insert is drilled and tapped hole for a
6/32 brass set screw, that has a .035 hole
drilled through the center. The small hole
in the brass fitting slows down the air loss to
control that condition. However, the tire
will still bleed off to preset air pressure.
Davis and I have tested this brass fitting for
the last year with good success.
|PROPER METHOD FOR
CLEANING DIAPHRAGM BLEEDERS
- Remove adjusting
cap and spring
- Remove nylon line
by depressing the orange donut on the center inlet, pull
- Remove nylon hose
and spring from assembly
- Holding bleeder
with inlet and muffler facing upward, remove back piece
(diaphragm will most likely come
out still attached to the back piece)
- Remove diaphragm,
fiber washer, and poppit
- Clean diaphragm
with soap and water or 409. Do not use brake clean.
- Wipe graphite off
the washer and poppit
- Clean back piece
and O-ring assembly with 409 or equivalent
- The back piece has a
screen in the center inlet to keep dirt out. After
cleaning use air to blow any dirt off the screen. Blow
the muffler clean from the outside-in, as excess
graphite will clog the muffler and stop the unit from
- Wipe diaphragm with
paper towel until dry. Use extra fine graphite (Carquest
part # mz-2) put graphite in a little plastic container
and drop diaphragms into graphite. Put the lid on and
shake for about ten seconds. Remove diaphragms and set
on paper towel with the center circle upward. Massage
diaphragm with index finger until shiny. Blow off excess
graphite or it will eventually clog the bronze muffler
Install the fiber washer first, then put poppit washer in
center (bevel side up). Drop diaphragm in last
with the little impression circle up. Note: the diaphragm
usually does not go in flat. Use the spring to
push up slowly from the bottom side. It will center itself.
Hold the main body in one hand, and start the
back piece in the threaded hole. Slowly spin the bottom
piece until you feel it bottom. Tighten back
piece with a # 10 line wrench ( 1 inch ). Do not over
tighten. Re-install nylon hose up through the hole
opposite the muffler. Put spring on hose and leave enough
hose exposed so you can insert it into the
inlet. Push it into the little orange donut, about 3/16
inch. Slide spring down to the orange donut and
pull extra hose outward until the spring is snug. Inspect
the O-ring on the plastic piece that goes into
the wheel. It gets a lot of abuse and should be changed if
it is cut up or grooved. It completes the
passage of air from the tire to the bleeder and is a place
that could leak air. You can spray it with
Windex or soapy water to see if it bubbles. If you see
bubbles replace the O-ring. Install the spring
and adjusting cap. Screw the end cap all the way down. It is
easier to arrive at the poundage you want,
by loosening the end cap slowly.
SETTING THE BLEEDERS
The air tank is the quickest and easiest method to set the
bleeders. Put +/-10 lbs of air in the tank.
Start loosening the end cap slowly. You will hear the
bleeder vibrate. When you get close to your setting
bring the lock ring up to the end cap. Tap the whole bleeder
on the tank or table and watch the air gauge.
Tapping the bleeder gives the same effect that it gets in
the axle when the car is bouncing on the track.
Readjust air pressure if necessary and then lock end cap
tightly. You can also use your tire to set the
bleeders, however the volume of air in the tire is greater
than in the tank and it takes much longer.
TROUBLESHOOTING THE BLEEDERS
Dirt and moisture are the enemy, and will adversely affect
your bleeder. You should use screens on the
wheel receivers to keep dirt out. Always plug the wheel when
washing the car. Moisture can come from your
air compressor. Drain it nightly or install a water
separator in the air system. Using nitrogen will
prevent moisture problems. If the bleeder does not bleed off
quickly, your muffler is probably clogged. A
good test is to remove the center inlet with a 7/64 Allen
wrench, and then take the muffler out. Reinstall
the center inlet and try again. If it vibrates, then you
know the muffler is dirty. If the bleeder won’t
hold air, it is the diaphragm. Disassemble to make sure the
diaphragm is free of dirt particles in the
center impression of the diaphragm (the little circle). If
it is clean of dirt, use graphite again.
||Red: 3 to 8
||Silver: 8 to
||Yellow: 8 to
||White: 14 to
If you have ever lost a race because
stagger went away, the
Conroy "Pneu" Control
will help you regulate it more accurately.
WHY IT HAPPENS: Centrifugal force creates a pressure on the poppet
valve in the bleeder when installed in the outer diameter of the wheel causing the poppet valve not to open at the desired setting. In other words, it is trying to close it!
HOW TO CORRECT IT: By installing the
Conroy "Pneu" Control in the
center of the axle axis and routing air from the tire to the bleeder.
All forces are eliminated and the bleeder functions properly.
An Aluminum air tank for setting your BLEEDERS. It has a
30# gauge, a wheel receiver, a Schrader valve for filling the
tank, and a brass pop off valve to prevent you from over filling
the tank. It is an exacting method of setting your
Set of Screens
A screen that mounts on the inlet side of your wheel
receiver. It is made of Billet aluminum with a fine Micron
screen and sealed with an O-ring. The opening is 3/8 in.,
so it does not reduce the opening.
Package of 10